Arrow Tight Waterproofing doesn't sell one-size-fits-all waterproofing packages. We diagnose the entry point, the pressure source, and the existing drainage condition — then we build the solution around what your specific property needs.
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Interior Drain Tile & Perimeter Channel Systems
When hydrostatic pressure is the primary culprit, the most effective long-term solution is a properly engineered interior drainage system. We install sub-slab perforated drain tile around the perimeter of your basement — capturing water before it can rise above slab level — and route it to a sump pit equipped with a dual-pump configuration.
Our sub-slab drainage systems use schedule 40 perforated PVC pipe in a stone bed, designed to handle high-volume water tables.
📞 Get a Free Drainage Quote →
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Exterior Foundation Coating & Drainage Board Installation
Full exterior waterproofing involves exposing your foundation to the footer depth, applying a crystalline or elastomeric waterproofing membrane, installing a geocomposite drainage mat, and placing exterior drain tile at the footing — the same specification used in new commercial construction.
This approach solves the problem at the source: water never reaches your interior wall surface.
📞 Schedule an Exterior Assessment →
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Foundation Crack Injection — Polyurethane & Epoxy Systems
Poured concrete foundation cracks are repaired from the interior using high-pressure polyurethane or epoxy injection — the appropriate chemistry depends on whether the crack is actively leaking or dry. Polyurethane foam expands into wet, actively leaking cracks and cures flexible, accommodating minor future movement. Epoxy injection is used in dry cracks where structural bond restoration is the goal.
For concrete block foundation walls showing horizontal cracking or inward bowing, we pair crack repair with carbon fiber reinforcement straps anchored at the floor and rim joist.
📞 Get a Crack Injection Estimate →
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Crawl Space Moisture Control: Encapsulation to Full Waterproofing
Crawl spaces are the most overlooked moisture source in residential structures. An unencapsulated crawl space — even one that "never floods" — pumps humid air into your living area through the stack effect, raising indoor humidity, feeding mold growth in floor joists, and accelerating wood rot in your subfloor structure. Full encapsulation seals that air pathway permanently.
For crawl spaces with active water entry, we install a perimeter drain channel at the footer line, route it to an appropriate discharge point or sump.
📞 Schedule a Crawl Space Inspection →
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Primary & Backup Sump Pump Systems for Haviland Homes
The sump pit itself matters as much as the pump. We construct 18-inch diameter pits with a gravel bed at the base for proper water collection, sealed lids to prevent vapor and radon entry, and a discharge line that terminates a minimum of 10 feet from the foundation at a positive-grade daylight point.
For finished basements and properties with high groundwater, we recommend a dual-pump system: a primary submersible at normal operating level and a pedestal backup set two inches higher.
📞 Get a Sump System Quote →
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Window Well Drainage & Egress Window Waterproofing
Basement window wells are one of the most underestimated water entry points in residential waterproofing. When the well drain becomes clogged or the well itself is sized incorrectly for your roof drainage load, water pools against the window frame and enters through the sill, the window-to-frame joint, or the block wall directly adjacent.
Window well covers are a maintenance measure, not a waterproofing solution — but paired with proper drainage installation.
📞 Book a Window Well Assessment →
